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Zox Kitchen

Zox Kitchen: September 12, 2013

Written by Chef Alan Zox, Friday, 13 September 2013 00:00

Preparing Swordfish Italian Style

Correction: In the “Lobster, Chinese Style” column that ran two weeks ago, the time to steam the lobster was missing and it should be 10 minutes.

Alfredo Viazzi’s restaurants in New York City’s Greenwich Village were especially well known for their Italian seafood dishes. I often enjoy preparing Viazzi’s recipes for friends and family including Branzino, in the bass family prepared in seaweed, cold striped bass with garlic butter, baccala al verde, and fish stew Livorno Style.

But Viazzi’s swordfish messina style was one of my favorites. It reminds me of the many memorable meals I ate at Viazzi’s when I lived in the New York City area. His food was exceptional and reminded me of the trattoria dishes of Italy.


Zox Kitchen: September 5, 2013

Written by Chef Alan Zox, Thursday, 05 September 2013 00:00

Celeriac—The Under Appreciated

Root Vegetable

A few years ago friends were serving a wonderful early fall meal of fish, salad, and a mashed vegetable dish that combined cauliflower, roasted carrot, and  an unknown root vegetable. The unknown vegetable turned out to be celery root, also called celeriac, which has become one of my favorite and most  adaptable root vegetables harvested this time of year. I think I was slow to appreciate celeriac because of the vegetable’s bulbous, “hairy” appearance which doesn’t even sound good in print. It looks like an oversized dirty softball that has seen better days. But once you wash the dirt off which exposes thin roots covered with dirt masquerading as hair, the vegetable becomes more palatable and downright extraordinary to eat.

Zox Kitchen: August 29, 2013

Written by Chef Alan Zox, Thursday, 29 August 2013 00:00

Lobster Feast, Chinese Style

Every region of the country is known for certain culinary specialties. The Midwest, which formed my roots, is known for its grain and flour, popcorn, cereal and beef. The South is known not only for Paula Deen but for its pork and grits and the curry brought to our shores by English traders. New Orleans created a Cajun cuisine of Creole, French, African-American, and native Indian flavors. And down-home barbecue cooked at low temperature, all afternoon, brought us the culinary art of many regions like the Carolinas, Tennessee, Missouri, Iowa and Texas.

Doc’s was the name of our favorite barbecue pit master in Des Moines. You could smell the smoke a mile away which was the fragrant sign that Doc was in business again. One never knew for sure if he would be open since he spent as much time “playing craps and the ponies,” (that is gambling illegally), and avoiding the local police. In those days legal casinos were only found in Las Vegas or Atlantic City. But when Doc’s was open, we all knew where we’d be getting dinner. It was the best meal in town, especially on a warm summer night.


Zox Kitchen: August 22, 2013

Written by Chef Alan Zox, Thursday, 22 August 2013 09:39

Zucchini, A Seasonal Bounty

In The Silver Spoon, the renowned 50-year-old Italian cookbook recently published in English, there are 37 recipes for zucchini and six for zucchini flowers. An ample number are found in most cookbooks because zucchini is so plentiful, inexpensive and delicious and because there are so many different ways to prepare them. They are also easy and fun to grow.

During my childhood, our garden was large enough to enable zucchini and pumpkin to grow as large as possible. Their long vines wrapped themselves around the tomato plants as though they belonged to them. It really was an embarrassment of vegetable riches. We were always offering these vegetables to friends and neighbors. But it wasn’t always easy to give them away in late August since everyone had a surplus of the ever present summer squash available to them.


Zox Kitchen: August 15, 2013

Written by Chef Alan Zox Thursday, 15 August 2013 15:50

Favorite Sauces & Salsas

It’s good to know that the culinary terms salsa and sauce are used interchangeably by cooks in different parts of the world. The French and those influenced by European cuisine call them sauces while the Latin and Spanish regions of the world call them salsas. This topic will continue to arise in other columns, so I will limit my comments to some of my seasonal favorites, hoping they are yours as well. They are all easy to make in a short time and generate great applause from your guests. They are healthy, flavorful, nutritious and affordable to make.

The first we will discuss is steak on the grill — still a food that most of us enjoy. I invariably turn to my fave rave, complementary food sauce, the Argentinian condiment called Chimichurri. Try it also with vegetables of all kinds.


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