The Johnny Pump, a new restaurant on Main Street, seeks to provide a dining experience that the whole family can enjoy. Owner Charlie Consignore aptly describes his concept as "gourmet food in a relaxed atmosphere." He said, "So often a family has to settle for 'fast food' or a diner. This is an alternative, where mom and pop can get high-end food and the kids can get well-prepared, nutritious meals that are not too expensive."

The first thing one notices is the bright, cheerful atmosphere, walls adorned with colorful pictures depicting the restaurant's theme. "Johnny Pump," as anyone from Brooklyn, Queens or the Bronx knows, was the street name for the fire hydrant. "The Johnny pump was a vital part of the street games," said Consignore, "during easier, less complicated times."

We were seated at a table that had chairs on one side and a leather banquette on the other. The banquette gave lots of what Consignore called "squirm room" for the kids. The table was covered with a tablecloth, which Consignore said was "for the adults." When they are seated, the younger children get a coloring book and crayons; the older ones get a booklet explaining some of the street games and a "Spaldeen." (If you're not sure what that is, ask anyone from Brooklyn.) The adults are served a canapé; the night we dined there, it was a small piece of duck with a purée of white bean flavored with a hint of orange. For the freshly baked rolls that kept on coming, they offered fresh butter and an herb and garlic spread.

The menu is simple, but offers a good selection of starters, soups, pasta and fish and meat entrées. The English pea soup came with pieces of shrimp and croutons topped with cheddar. The soup de jour was cream of broccoli, and it, too was delicious. For starters, we had a succulent terrine of fresh seasonal vegetables - it came in the shape of a crown. The presentation of all the food was spectacular.

The penne pasta was redolent with an exceedingly generous portion of clams. It came in a sumptuous basil white wine sauce with oven dried tomatoes and fresh spinach. All of Johnny Pump's fish is exceptionally fresh. We had a seared tuna topped with sesame seeds, done to perfection and served over a bed of oriental slaw. Another member of our party enjoyed incredibly tender braised beef short ribs, taken off the bone and cooked in a special sauce. Chef and co-owner Dominick DiNapoli, who has over ten years experience as a chef in a number of highly rated New York City restaurants, told us that the sauce had 35 ingredients. Also delicious was the baby chicken, served with cream of potatoes, asparagus tips, caramelized shallots, and a root beer (yes, root beer) sherry reduction.

There is a separate kids' menu featuring mini cheeseburgers, which the children we observed were thoroughly enjoying. Older children and adults can choose a Johnny Pump burger, made with ground sirloin with sun-dried tomatoes, served with delicately cooked seasoned french fries. Another popular dish with the kids is breaded chicken rings on a pole - the chef pounds a breast of chicken and cuts the rings.

Desserts are fantastic. Johnny Pump's pastry chef does all the baking on premises. We had a melt-in-the mouth banana layered sponge cake, an absolutely wicked chocolate raspberry mousse, and a wonderful chocolate cherry soufflé cake. Kids get a free dessert - choice of a banana split or a Johnny Pump cookie with ice cream. The Johnny Pump cookie is in the shape of a (what else?) fire hydrant. The kid in our party devoured it before we even blinked, assuring us it was delicious.

In keeping with the theme, in addition to the usual beverages, one can have a root beer float (delicious!), orange cream float or mint tea vanilla float, as well as fountain sodas and smoothies. We highly recommend the "Johnnychino," cappuccino with vanilla and a touch of caramel and cinnamon.

The service was efficient and courteous. We liked that they changed the utensils for each course, a rarity these days except in the most expensive restaurants.

Johnny Pump is located at 41 Main Street and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. (9 p.m. on Sundays). They also offer a full selection of take-out, including fresh salads, sandwiches and wraps, hot dishes, and baked goods. Catering services are available as well. There is free delivery on orders over $20. Their telephone is 767-5670; fax 767-5671. Dinner entrée prices are typically just under $20. Lunch sandwiches are $8 and $9; entrées are $11 to $13. There is free parking available behind the restaurant.

Consignore summed up by saying, "Here, you can have fine dining without spending a lot of money."